The Story of Howard's Egg Nog, and The Recipe, Once Again

It's that time of year, when those who remember ask me to please re-publish the recipe for Howard's Egg Nog. Back in the day my husband, Howard Joynt, would whip up big batches of very potent home made egg nog. In the few days running up to Christmas he offered it free of charge at his saloon, Nathans. For a few select friends he would bottle it, and give it as gifts. When Nathans closed I lost the means to pull the required many bottles of premium rum, bourbon and cognac off the shelf to make the famed home brew. But the recipe should endure. 

If Howard were alive today he would no doubt be a big fan of Derek Brown at the Columbia Room, maybe they'd have a mentor-protege relationship, because looking back I realize Howard was a master mixologist before his time, maybe DC's first. He loved the anthropology of classic cocktails, the craft of making a good drink, and especially designing a recipe. For example, he was making his own "flavored" vodkas long before the major producers bought into the trend. Today he would be making bitters and bourbon. 

So, while I may not be able to offer free glasses of potent egg nog at Wisconsin and M, I am able to offer up the recipe. Worth noting: Howard composed this recipe after we attended a White House Christmas party in 1985, where we enjoyed especially the White House Egg Nog - which back then was still made from scratch - and he huddled with one of the veteran White House bartenders to learn the details of the recipe. Howard's version is based on the White House classic with his professional embellishments.

It was always whipped up in our large kitchen at home on the Chesapeake Bay, which was had stone walls and a big fireplace and views of the water in three directions. I didn't own a restaurant back then (thankfully that was his business) but I was seriously into cooking. I took cooking lessons each week from the brilliant Gerard Pangaud and made all our meals in that kitchen, kept it tidy and pristine between making lamb stew, coq au vin, roasted game, tart tatin or chocolate souffles. The Annual Night of the Egg Nog, however, was just the opposite. Howard was the mad mixologist, whisks and blenders whirring, eggs and their shells flying. When he was done it was a mess. But the result, the egg nog, was glorious. He was damned proud of that egg nog, and with good reason. 

After inheriting Nathans, I continued the Egg Nog ritual, but had the chef and cooks make it in Nathans kitchen. Drinking it each Christmas became a token of remembrance - for me, for friends, and for the staff. I don't miss owning Nathans but I do miss the tradition of Howard's Egg Nog. 

If you were a Nathans fan, or are an Egg Nog connoisseur, perhaps you will recreate it at home. I promise reward.

HOWARD'S EGG NOG

5 Egg Yolks

5 Egg Whites

1 1/4 cup sugar

3/4 cup bourbon

3/4 cup cognac

3/4 cup dark rum

1 quart milk

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 pint heavy cream

Nutmeg

Vanilla extract

Premium quality vanilla ice cream (Moorenko's or Dolcezza, for example)

The Preparation

-Combine yolks and sugar in and bowl and beat to ribbon stage

-Add bourbon, rum, cognac to yolk mix 

-Let  those ingredients rest, and while they rest

-Whip egg whites to stiff peak

-Whip the cream to medium thickness

-Fold whites and cream together, and then add yolks and alchohol, and stir for at least 1 minute

-Add spices (nutmeg and vanilla)

Chill in the refrigerator overnight. 

Serve in a punch bowl with a big chunk of premium vanilla ice cream in the punch bowl

Stir regularly when serving