THE 1991 ECHÉZEAUX BOUGHT BY HOWARD FOR SPENCER TO HAVE WHEN HE TURNED 21
Happy 21st Birthday to my son, Spencer, and a million loving thank you's to his godmother, Jean Perin, for hosting his birthday dinner at The Inn at Little Washington, and to his godfather, Patrick O'Connell, the Inn's chef and owner, for creating a memorable, sensational and delicious birthday dinner.
CHAMPAGNE AT THE START OF DINNER
The meal began with Louis Roederer Cristal and caviar and danced on for seven more elegant and inventive courses ... and that's not counting the assortment of groovy canapés we devoured before dinner in The Inn's "living room."
SPENCER WITH JEAN PERIN, WEARING THE STETSON HE GOT FOR HER AT ALLEN'S BOOTS IN AUSTIN
We were joined by some of our dearest friends, who all go way back with us: Ellen Charles, Sally Hosta, and Beverly and John Fox Sullivan. (John is also Little Washington's mayor, and we sat at "the mayor's table.") Collectively we gave Spencer a birthday gift of a trip to Las Vegas, with one TBA traveling companion. That went over well, to say the least.
SPENCER JOYNT WITH HIS GODFATHER, PATRICK O'CONNELL
The menu included these dishes: A Shot of White Bean Soup with Truffled Grilled Cheese Sandwich; The Mayor's Oyster Slurpees; A Tin of Sin; Nantucket Bay Scallops Sautéed with Curried Cauliflower, Sultanas and Garlic Chips; Olive-Crusted Chesapeake Bay Rockfish with Artichoke Tortellini in an Orange Pernod Essence; Spencer's Halloween Pumpkin filled with Pumpkin Risotto and the Season's First White Truffles from Alba; Pan Seared Duck Breast with Seared Foie Gras and Red Wine Poached Pear.
NANTUCKET BAY SCALLOPS WITH CAULIFLOWER, SULTANAS AND GARLIC CHIPS
There were sumputous wine pairings for each course, including a Grand Cru white Burgundy and a white Châteauneuf du Pape and the showstopper, a DRC Echézeaux from Spencer's birth year, 1991. Howard bought the bottle for Spencer's 21st and it had been resting in the Inn's wine cellar all these years, waiting for this occasion. It was as magnificent, earthy and palate-boggling as this wine can be, and took me back to so many, many meals with Howard and a bottle of DRC. It was our first date wine, with many more to come over the next 20 years. His favorite, though, was Echézeaux (with La Tâche not far behind). So, as we sipped this wine, Howard was with us at the dinner.
PATRICK O'CONNELL CALLS THIS A "TIN A OF SIN." I CALL IT ONE OF CUISINE'S GREAT GIFTS
There were many toasts through the meal, and the telling of stories of how we all met, and memories of Howard and recollections of Spencer's variety of markers along the path of growing up. And gift giving, of course. Spencer had gifts from Texas for everyone, including a Stetson for Jeannie and a "Longhorns" sweat shirt for Patrick and a Texas t-shirt for John, and hats and bracelets for Beverly, Ellen and Sally.
MAYOR SULLIVAN AND CHEF O'CONNELL WITH THEIR TEXAS GEAR
From gift-giving it was on to dessert. Pumpkins played a role twice in the meal. And here's the backstory: Spencer's first overnight at The Inn was when he was 5 weeks old. There have been dozens more visits over the years, but the one he mentions the most often is the time we spent Halloween there, when he was almost 2-years-old, and Patrick served him pasta in a pumpkin. Thus the pumpkin risotto in a pumpkin/squash. Also, when the birthday cake was rolled out under a sugar dome, it was revealed to be adorned with marzipan pumpkins and to be made of pumpkin spice cake.
A SHOT OF WINE BEAN SOUP WITH A TRUFFLED GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH
Searching through photo albums, I found some photos from the very dinner where Spencer had the pasta in a pumpkin. It's notable that he was also dressed as a pumpkin ....
SPENCER, AT ALMOST 2-YEARS-OLD, HAVING PASTA IN A PUMPKIN AT THE INN
PATRICK WITH SPENCER, DRESSED AS A PUMPKIN
I can't begin to count the ways Patrick and Jeannie have been good friends to Spencer. And I should point out how the same can be said for his absent godparents: Harry Shearer and Judith Owen and Sahm Doherty Sefton. A very happy memory is a two week boat trip, organized by Howard when Spencer was 4, into the Everglades and up the West Coast of Florida that included Harry, Judith and Jeannie.
PATRICK WITH THE GOLD-DOMED BIRTHDAY CAKE
PATRICK AND SPENCER AND THE PUMPKIN BIRTHDAY CAKE
BIRTHDAY CAKE DECONSTRUCTED
It was midnight when dinner began to slow toward conclusion. There were many hugs as we said good-bye to Patrick, the staff and to Jeannie and Sally, who were headed back toward Middleburg. As unbelievable as it may sound, given all we'd consumed, the Sullivans, Spencer, Ellen and I returned to the Sullivans, where we were spending the night, for nightcaps of rare Kentucky bourbon. It was so much fun. What was most remarkable was that this morning, when I woke up around 9, I was able to walk and talk.
SPENCER HAVING BREAKFAST WITH HIS DAD AT THE INN IN OCTOBER 1993
Rachel Hayden, who is one of the managers of The Inn, made a booklet-style menu for the evening that included a lot of photos from over the years. Photos of Spencer with Howard. Photos of Spencer with Patrick. Photos of Spencer and me at various Inn meals and overnight stays. On the back cover was the photo above, of Spencer having a father-son breakfast at The Inn. I love that photo. Below is another favorite. It's Spencer and me on The Inn's back terrace, in the spring after Howard died. It reminds me of the safe haven Patrick provided for us; a place to be together and feel secure.
